Wait, Wat?

TL;DR: a Wat is the Thai/Cambodian/Lao term for a Bhuddist temple. Click here for a separate primer on what to expect when you visit a Wat.

You will find Wats all over Thailand, where they’re about as ubiquitous as, say, Starbucks in the USA. Actually, more so: there are some 40,000 Wats in Thailand alone, according to the Google.

If you’re picturing a quiet, soothing place of prayer and reflection, then you’ve got the other type of Bhuddism in mind. The dominant strain of Bhuddism in Thailand is Theravada, sort of a more-is-more Bhuddist philosophy—and it’s practiced by some 94% of the Thai population. Let that sink in for a minute. 94%. That, my friends, is a remarkable degree of cultural homogeneity. Heck, we can’t even get 94% of Americans to agree we landed on the moon!

Where was I? Oh yeah—Wats. So, they’re Theravada temples, and most of them are open to the public (there are a few royal ones that are off limits) and for the most part, they are unmistakable due to their wild, extravagant decoration. Every surface flashes, sparkles or throbs with color, beckoning you close like a flashlight brings moths. That’s entirely by design.

You see, Wats are sustained by donations—so the more visitors they can attract, the better. And for practicing Bhuddists, you don’t leave without making an offering. That could be financial, or placing gold leaf on a Bhudda statue, or buying and lighting incense, or oil for lamps, or rice for orphans. All of these are ways of “making merit,” increasing your good karma.

Wat happens to the donations? Some of the collected money goes to upkeep. Anything this ornate requires huge amounts of maintenance. Many Wats fund repairs and expansions by selling roof tiles, for instance, that you can write a personal message on. Some others might invite you to buy a metal leaf or prayer ribbon, which you can write your individual prayer on with Sharpie. These are bundled and displayed with others in mind-boggling numbers.

Many Wats also solicit donations for vulnerable populations: seniors, orphans, the disabled. The monks, too, are often housed in monasteries nearby. In many areas, the monks circulate through towns and cities first thing in the morning collecting alms—yet another means of allowing the population to make merit.

In addition to the main temple sanctuary, the Wat complex will usually contain a beautiful tower-like structure called a Stupa or Chedi, where a relic of the Bhudda may reside, alongside the ashes of meritorious monks. (Some Wats even have their own crematorium!) There’s often a school, or dormitory for the monks, some pavillions for assemblies, and areas for lighting incense.

With the sights, sounds (shaking of fortune sticks, chanting etc.), and smells (incense), it can be sensory overload at first. But after visiting a few Wats, you will start to enjoy the vibe of it. My kids stopped complaining right around the 4th or 5th Wat we visited, and will now wander around quite happily checking all the nooks and crannies for interesting stuff to see.

Wats are unmistakably, unforgettably Thai, and the more you explore them, the better you will understand Thai culture.